Tulum is a small town. There's the playa, there's your hotel, there are a few murals if you go looking — and then there are the ruins. That's more or less the list. The Maya ruins of Tulum are the main reason most people make it to this part of the Yucatán Peninsula,...

I'll be upfront with you: Tulum was a strange one. We arrived in late April — just past Easter, technically shoulder season — and the place felt oddly quiet. Half the hotels along the beach road were either under construction or looked like they'd been abandoned...